Sunday, July 18, 2010

a bit wordy perhaps

I would be content living exactly like this forever.

Where to even begin. There are so many things I have yet to write for nobody to read. Paul has made a nice little social circle of people who share this apartment complex. And their pre-furnished apartments have just as much personality as the residents themselves.
There is Josh, the charming British boy who spent a few years in New York and when not in Jordan has been living in Scotland. He tells stories better than almost anyone I have met, and will hold your attention endlessly telling the most seemly mundane tales. A mysterious creature, he always wears button up shirts gingerly tucked into his waistband. His house is donned with gaudy golden moldings, and sleeps in a huge princess bed each night.
There is Drew, a darling boy who goes to school in Boston, and has no one place he calls home. His manner of speech reminds me greatly of my Jorgenson brothers back home, but that is where the similarity ends. He has traveled extensively, and is a very gentle soul. He would put anyone at ease simply being in the same room as him.
There is Dustin, here visiting his boyfriend Niko, and like me has nothing to do during the day while Niko is off at work. We have adventured clear around this city and shared Fatatri, or Egyptian pizza-type things. He is who showed me the mango juice from the little stands downtown. (Two quarreling businesses set up shop on either side of a narrow alley entrance, and fight for your business as you walk past. He always goes for the one on the left). Dustin is what one might call a know-it-all, but in the most unoffensive way. Full of useful (and useless) information, when he defines words for you, you're glad to listen.
And there is Hannah. Paul's boss, a dear woman who is willing to help in any way possible, and has accompanied us on our adventures over this past weekend. A lovely tour guide, and interesting woman who is never short on stories. A true joy to be around, she is tough and worldly.
These are the few I have spent most my time with, although everyone I have met in this building could easily turn into dear friends I'm sure. After only a week it feels comfortable. It is reassuring to know that I could drop into any place and find amazing people. Although, obviously I must give Paul credit for this whole situation. I have simply weaseled my way into his niche here. I must take a portrait series before I leave.

So with these people I have come to love this city and more recently the surrounding country as well. The weekends here are Friday and Saturday, so Friday morning we had our first out-of-Amman excursion. Accompanied by Drew and Hannah, Paul and I hired a driver to take us to Wadi Mujib. A wadi simply means a valley or gorge, but in actuality they are often huge canyons with tall gorgeous walls. We started off wading through ankle deep water, with walls around us reaching up and touching the skies. Again, no photos or words could capture either the breadth or beauty of where we were. Climbing farther into the canyon, the water got steadily deeper until we were waist deep and approaching small waterfalls which we had to devise ways of shimmying over. 5 or 6 of these obstacles we all decided were not enough. It was truly a great time. At the end of the trail was a 30 or so foot tall waterfall, which we all climbed behind and watched the world from behind a curtain of falling water. On the way out, we sat in the water for 20 or 30 minutes and attempted to soak up every inch and nook and cranny of the place we were. A few photos were snapped, and I will eventually put some up somewhere.
The next stop was a short walk across the road, down to the Dead Sea. Looking like a scene on Tataouine from Star Wars, we descended a hill down to the warm, salty water. Now, swimming in this sea is an experience no human should be without. The density of the water is heavier than our bodies, so you just float. Putting your legs beneath you is a task in itself, and moving gracefully is out of the question. But woah. It is really an unbelievable feeling.
Yesterday we got a bit of sun poisoning, but it was worth it. With Hannah leading us around, we made our way to Jerash. This is a town a bit north of here full of amazing Roman and Byzantine ruins. Things like the Colosseum have nothing on this place. Jerash is an entire ancient city, with column-lined roads, untouched amphitheaters, and temples for the gods. We spent 4 hours wandering, snapping hundreds of photos which again I will post somewhere eventually.

While there has been no shortage of venturing out and about, some of my favorite things have been buying sandwiches from little shops and eating them in road-side parks and admiring the people passing by. Walking these streets with someone so dear to me is treat enough. While Paul snoozed last night, I found my favorite place in the entire apartment. Pushing open the screen in the kitchen window, I sat on the sill dangling my legs over a 4 story drop to the staircase below. I can gaze upon the ancient city and listen to the call to prayer, and pretend that this is my life.

So here I am. Exhausted but exhilarated. I will stroll up to Al Quds, the most amazing falafel stand, and buy myself lunch. Followed by a stop in the Jordanian treat shop for some fresh baked delicacies. I don't want to come home.

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